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Prodigy issues

Bragah said:
Welcome.

New here as well, but also purchased a 5" Prodigy. I personally haven't had any issues out of a total of 300 rds so far, 3 different manufacturers ammo.

I am curious, as I've been reading up trying to see if how some have solved their issues.

If you feel the inner lip of your mags, is it completely smooth or does it feel gritty? Some people report their mag lips were not smooth and the casing was catching on the feed lips. After smoothing them out, they said it ran great.

Please let us know! Also, if you don't mind, what's your Serial? Mine is 003XXX, trying to see if it's random or maybe a bad batch with close serials. (Don't post the whole number, X out the last few like I did)
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My serial number 12xxx. The inner lip of my mags is smooth to the touch. Despite having one mag run slightly better than the other I don't feel like it's a mag issue. To me it felt like the slide didn't have enough inertia to go into full battery most of the time.

I just took the gun apart and saw some grit on the rails. I wiped it off and took a magnet over it and it was magnetic. See pictures below. I also took a single picture of what looks like some wear of the finish to me. I wonder if this is break in? I own some high end 1911 and with hand fitting it takes some rounds to break them in. I seem to recall reading some paperwork with my Les Baer to shoot 250 or 500 rounds (I don't recall the number) before I call to complain about the gun. After about 200 rounds and my first cleaning it's run like a champ.

So I hope this is just break in. The slide is very smooth and even with the grit I saw on the rails it felt smooth. The other thing is my DS was lubed heavy. I would say very wet.

I'm open to more comments and suggestions but don't want to hear statements about no gun needs a break in. While I find that to be the case with polymer guns, tight-fitting all metal guns sometimes do in my experience.
 

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chemsal said:
My serial number 12xxx. The inner lip of my mags is smooth to the touch. Despite having one mag run slightly better than the other I don't feel like it's a mag issue. To me it felt like the slide didn't have enough inertia to go into full battery most of the time.

I just took the gun apart and saw some grit on the rails. I wiped it off and took a magnet over it and it was magnetic. See pictures below. I also took a single picture of what looks like some wear of the finish to me. I wonder if this is break in? I own some high end 1911 and with hand fitting it takes some rounds to break them in. I seem to recall reading some paperwork with my Les Baer to shoot 250 or 500 rounds (I don't recall the number) before I call to complain about the gun. After about 200 rounds and my first cleaning it's run like a champ.

So I hope this is just break in. The slide is very smooth and even with the grit I saw on the rails it felt smooth. The other thing is my DS was lubed heavy. I would say very wet.

I'm open to more comments and suggestions but don't want to hear statements about no gun needs a break in. While I find that to be the case with polymer guns, tight-fitting all metal guns sometimes do in my experience.
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Gotcha.

Very likely not a mag issue for you then. Do you notice the slide being a bit sluggish at all?

I saw some videos where the slide, even without any mag in, was really sluggish for some people.

Mine is quick and crisp. Wondering if it's something to do with spring tension for some people.

Honestly really interested to figure out and or hear what the issue ends up being. Hopefully yours clears up or we can find an answer and quick fix!
 
Bragah said:
Gotcha.

Very likely not a mag issue for you then. Do you notice the slide being a bit sluggish at all?

I saw some videos where the slide, even without any mag in, was really sluggish for some people.

Mine is quick and crisp. Wondering if it's something to do with spring tension for some people.

Honestly really interested to figure out and or hear what the issue ends up being. Hopefully yours clears up or we can find an answer and quick fix!
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After cleaning the slide seems to have a little more snap. When I was shooting the slide was sluggish. In fact, when it did cycle I could see the slide's action working. For me I think I need one more trip to the range to see if I can get it cycling good. If not, moving up to a stronger spring makes sense. I really want this thing to run well and I will keep you all posted on my progress.
 
chemsal said:
After cleaning the slide seems to have a little more snap. When I was shooting the slide was sluggish. In fact, when it did cycle I could see the slide's action working. For me I think I need one more trip to the range to see if I can get it cycling good. If not, moving up to a stronger spring makes sense. I really want this thing to run well and I will keep you all posted on my progress.
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i keep hearing on the various sites, for whatever gun, that changing the recoil spring is the "thing to do"..

then why should the company even include a recoil spring, and tell everyone to just go out and buy what you want, and then install it yourself...?

all guns, no matter make, model, brand, were/are designed with specific specs to work a particular way.

why is it that so many change out parts on a new gun, when so many others run them "as-is" out of the box, and never have any issues??

sure, i can "see" changing this spring, or that spring, IF xxx amount of rounds were shot thru the gun, and it is now "factory recommended time" to change them out?

i dunno, i just never saw or can see the need to start changing out perfectly acceptable factory spec'd parts for aftermarket ones.
 
Light springs give the impression of smoothness and easy rackability. Reliability generally dictates the strongest spring that will lock back the slide fired weak handed with a loose grip with 1 round in the magazine.

There is a reason the spec spring for a 9mm Commander is a 16 lb. My Same sized slide Legion 226 SAO is 15lbs and it has virtually no feed ramp. I finally get to pick mine up today that I bought 2 weeks ago. After a field strip, inspection, cleaning and several hundred slide racks and dry fires with snap caps, I will start with whatever recoil spring moves the slide at the same rate of speed as my others. I purchased a tuning pack from Wolfe that has 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 pound springs. I consider springs like ammo you need to try different ones to find out what works best.

Magazines on 2011s are a whole different subject.
 
Some good advice from a recent Wilson Combat vid:

"The recoil spring you want in the gun is the heaviest spring that you can have while shooting that gun weak-handed, with a reasonably loose grip and one round in the magazine, and the slide always goes to slide lock."

- Bill Wilson
 
Old_Me said:
i keep hearing on the various sites, for whatever gun, that changing the recoil spring is the "thing to do"..

then why should the company even include a recoil spring, and tell everyone to just go out and buy what you want, and then install it yourself...?

all guns, no matter make, model, brand, were/are designed with specific specs to work a particular way.

why is it that so many change out parts on a new gun, when so many others run them "as-is" out of the box, and never have any issues??

sure, i can "see" changing this spring, or that spring, IF xxx amount of rounds were shot thru the gun, and it is now "factory recommended time" to change them out?

i dunno, i just never saw or can see the need to start changing out perfectly acceptable factory spec'd parts for aftermarket ones.
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The recoil spring spec'd on a production gun is typically an approximation of the 'best' all-around poundage, but it doesn't mean that's going to be the ideal spring weight for every shooter, with every load. There will always be other variables that may dictate going up or down a bit in poundage. For example, if you mainly shoot light or heavy loads or +P loads, you might want to change the recoil spring accordingly to keep the gun functioning properly and to avoid unecessary wear and tear. Mounting an optic on a slide might also dictate an adjustment in recoil spring weight. those are just two examples.

Short story is that I wouldn't always assume that whatever recoil spring the gun shipped with from the factory is the "perfect" weight and shouldn't be deviated from - shooting the gun will tell you.
 
Sol-Invictus said:
I will start with whatever recoil spring moves the slide at the same rate of speed as my others. I purchased a tuning pack from Wolfe that has 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 pound springs. I consider springs like ammo you need to try different ones to find out what works best.
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but not all guns are created, designed or built equally.

each company has specs, once you leave those parameters, you are out of spec.

simply put, you cannot expect the same results from an all metal gun, to an all plastic one.

even metal to metal gun comparisons, unless it is the same brand, same model, the the testing is not correct.

the over all weight of the gun is going to be different from one to the other.

in the end...hey...do as you wish

i just don't "monkey around" with the designed specs, maybe just what oil/grease to use.
 
Old_Me said:
but not all guns are created, designed or built equally.

each company has specs, once you leave those parameters, you are out of spec.

simply put, you cannot expect the same results from an all metal gun, to an all plastic one.

even metal to metal gun comparisons, unless it is the same brand, same model, the the testing is not correct.

the over all weight of the gun is going to be different from one to the other.

in the end...hey...do as you wish

i just don't "monkey around" with the designed specs, maybe just what oil/grease to use.
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Except the “company specs” are a moving target, as well.


Tolerance stacking is a thing, and a high + tolerance component fitted with a high - tolerance component can cause issues…and if, say, you have a slide that’s within tolerance but heavier than the median coupled with a spring that’s on the lower end of tolerance for weight…just swapping the spring can fix the problem.

And swapping a spring won’t void a warranty, either.
 
HansGruber said:
Except the “company specs” are a moving target, as well.


Tolerance stacking is a thing, and a high + tolerance component fitted with a high - tolerance component can cause issues…and if, say, you have a slide that’s within tolerance but heavier than the median coupled with a spring that’s on the lower end of tolerance for weight…just swapping the spring can fix the problem.

And swapping a spring won’t void a warranty, either.
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not so much worried about changing a spring, and voiding a warranty, as more like "what if"..

like what if the owner still feels that he needs to do more and more for that "perfect gun".

will anyone be 100% satisfied?

i think not, as there will always be more to switch out, and end up with a desk paper weight.

wouldn't it be better to buy all the parts, including of course, frame, slide, etc, and just build your own..??

afterall, isn't that what someone is doing, when they start switching out factory parts?
 
Old_Me said:
not so much worried about changing a spring, and voiding a warranty, as more like "what if"..

like what if the owner still feels that he needs to do more and more for that "perfect gun".

will anyone be 100% satisfied?

i think not, as there will always be more to switch out, and end up with a desk paper weight.

wouldn't it be better to buy all the parts, including of course, frame, slide, etc, and just build your own..??

afterall, isn't that what someone is doing, when they start switching out factory parts?
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I have switched out the spring on my Prodigy and it has worked out fine, but I do think the modding frenzy with which new Prodigy owners have adopted is by-and-large down to inexperience with the 1911 platform and also with so-called 1911 experts who are typically serial modders. I am seeing more and more “My Prodigy runs fine out of the box” comments popping up on various forums.
 
SimonRL said:
I have switched out the spring on my Prodigy and it has worked out fine, but I do think the modding frenzy with which new Prodigy owners have adopted is by-and-large down to inexperience with the 1911 platform and also with so-called 1911 experts who are typically serial modders. I am seeing more and more “My Prodigy runs fine out of the box” comments popping up on various forums.
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from what i recall being told, is that the prodigy is actually built on the 2011 platform..???

yes, i too have seen many out of the box working very well posts, at various sites.

serial modders....lol......

and yeah, way too many experts......like..."uh, i think this belongs here, no wait, it belongs to that over there" types.....

and they have youtube videos, displaying thier expertise....
 
Old_Me said:
not so much worried about changing a spring, and voiding a warranty, as more like "what if"..

like what if the owner still feels that he needs to do more and more for that "perfect gun".

will anyone be 100% satisfied?

i think not, as there will always be more to switch out, and end up with a desk paper weight.

wouldn't it be better to buy all the parts, including of course, frame, slide, etc, and just build your own..??

afterall, isn't that what someone is doing, when they start switching out factory parts?
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I think the convo was merely talking about selecting the appropriate recoil spring weight for the gun/load here, not about endlessly tweaking a gun to the point that it doesn't function, or "building something from the ground up."
 
My serial number was in the 16,000 range. There was some evidence of moderate shooting and some apparent fitting with highly polished ramp; safety shaft on right side had no finish. Slight fitting on parts of rails, evidence of a couple slight nicks from assembly reassembly, super crisp safety and one of the crispist triggers, while heavier than I would prefer that I have ever felt. The fit is so tight nothing even hints at moving but is smooth as glass.
 
Old_Me said:
not so much worried about changing a spring, and voiding a warranty, as more like "what if"..

like what if the owner still feels that he needs to do more and more for that "perfect gun".

will anyone be 100% satisfied?

i think not, as there will always be more to switch out, and end up with a desk paper weight.

wouldn't it be better to buy all the parts, including of course, frame, slide, etc, and just build your own..??

afterall, isn't that what someone is doing, when they start switching out factory parts?
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Not really…and there is no “slippery slope” on modifying…at least if you have a modicum of sense.

And—at least as a 1911 is concerned, you CAN buy every last component (including an 80% frame—at least, you used to be able to) and build it entirely yourself; Cylinder & Slide used to have classes where you did just that.
 
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