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reloading questions/advice if you would please?

I'll give you some examples in .45 ACP using 230 gr. RN lead bullets. 1.23" OAL
231- 4.0 gr. @ 661 fps, 5.8 gr. @ 902 fps
Titegroup- 4.5 gr. @ 735 fps, 5.1 gr. @ 841 fps
Unique- 5.5 gr. @ 695 fps, 7.3 gr. @ 905 fps
Pick something in between to start and load 10-20 rounds to test for function. Use a case gauge to find out of spec ammo. Do not use a barrel as a cheap alternative. I've gotten ftf at a match with out of spec ammo because I used a barrel. A round nose is most like a fmj and you can always get swc to try other loads. I've used 185 and 200 gr. swc successfully in my guns.
If you think you might want to load other calibers, try to pick a powder that would work with all or most of what you would do. I don't want a bunch of different ones if I can help it.
Cheapest bullets are lubed lead, but many companies offer coated bullets for a bit more. My last order came from Bear Creek bullets which are moly coated. Large pistol primers are more expensive than small and not as easy to find. You can also order .45 ACP brass with small pistol primer pockets and they are reportedly no different in firing than the large.
When I first started reloading, I bought 200 pieces of .44 Magnum brass.
You will not save money, but shoot more for the same amount you otherwise would have spent.
 
ok, so many of you recall i have a Dillon 550C, and a Lee Pro-4000

on the Dillon, at the time, i could only get Lee dies, in whatever caliber i wanted, as the shortages hit the reloading world, as you also recall.

i had been reloading 45 ACP on the Dillon, and the Lee crimping die always made it difficult to get the cartridge into the die for a taper crimp....sometimes, as i lowered the ram, it would also pull out the bullet!

so i said screw this, and searched Dillon's website for dies.

i only bought the crimping die.

i just set it up, and it works like BUTTER..

no hang-ups going into the die or lowering the ram when done.

in the following pics, you can see the somewhat narrow opening Lee die, compared to the Dillons wider open die.

you can also see the differences in the shell casing sitting into the dies.

Dillon's crimping die for the 45 ACP was about $48 with tax/shipping..

i look forward to the 200 rounds i have to reload in a few days

Dillon on the left, Lee on the right

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Old_Me said:
ok, so i got that new credit card the other day, but sleep schedules have been off, so to order what i want will actually be for another day.

i have "planned" on getting the Lee Pro 4000 from one of the online places i do business with.

my first choice of ammo to reload will be .45 ACP, as this is my favorite to shoot.

i "may" buy other dies and plates for (maybe) 38 special, 357, 9mm, and maybe 44 special (even though i haven't any 44 caliber gun, and may never own a 44 caliber gun. my "thoughts" are geared up, for when i go to sell the equipment, i can offer more to the buyer and not limit myself to only the .45 ACP, if you get what i mean?

ok, so i got a hold of a possible purchase of used tumbler and digital scale (Frankford Arsenal) from a RSO.

then i still need a bullet puller, case gauges (maybe one block, rather than separate ones) and a few other odds and ends, like a digital caliper for OAL measurements.

i already have the latest Lyman reloading book. i know that the gun powder websites have specs, as well as another book (or 2) will be in my future.

now, regarding just the gun powder, i'd like "smoke free"? and if so, what do YOU reloaders use for good, dependable, gunpowder for a new guy like me, that right now, just wants, near factory specs. at my age, i am not into competitions, or hot loads, PLUS it is NOT smart to go off the specs for anything BUT factory specs.

as far as primers, i know i'll need (if i can find them) large pistol and small pistol primers. name brand not withstanding, price may dictate what i can buy.

as far as bullets, i have heard of Berry's, and a few others that i have in my search favorite, but what is the general consensus of what YOU buy?

right now, we all know cost is a factor, i clean my guns regularly, so leading may not be an issue, if i do not go FMJ bullets.

also, do ANY of you write down your "recipes" for your reloads, as well as day, date, performance, maybe lot number of the powder, etc, etc?

i will have other questions in the near future, thanks in advance to all that read and help, advise, recommend..!!
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Most of what you are talking about makes sense and there are plenty of people willing to offer advice. But, I think the way to start, once you have equipment, is with recommended loads from what ever powder manufacturer you choose to use. Again the recommendations for types of powder everybody has their favorite. So if you choose to start with, let's say, Winchester, look at their loading manuals, all available on line, and start with the lower third of the range they recommend. Somebody's favorite load may work perfectly for them in THEIR GUN, but not so perfect in your gun, even if the same model. So read the posts but take everything with a grain of salt, or powder.
I didn't read all of the posts but in the few I did Dillon's Precision was missing. Dillon (call and get one of their catalogs and get on their list) makes progressive presses (google it if you don't know what that is) which is what you want if you are a pistol shooter. A progressive press is what you want if you are a pistolero because you may shoot hundreds of rounds per week which most rifle shooters don't do.
I have two Dillon Square Deal B's which only load pistol rounds. I have used them to load 100's of thousands of rounds over almost 40 years. Never, well almost never, a problem. But if something does go wrong they will help you determine what's wrong, and send any parts you might need free, shipping paid. Lifetime warranty for real. Even if it is your fault, like you can't get it together after cleaning, or you lost a screw or bearing. FREE - LIFETIME. I have dies for 6 or 7 different calibers for guns I have owned over the years but don't buy dies until you need them. If you think you might load rifle cartridges you will need to step up from the Square Deal B. I'm not a rifleman so they were fine for me.
Some folks reload because they enjoy it, like a hobby in itself. Me I find it boring and tiring for my right arm. I loaded all that ammo because it used to be much cheaper than factory ammo. Not so much anymore and primers are hard to find reasonably priced. Once started you'll be buying them 5,000 at a time. On my presses I can load 100 rds. in less than 15 minutes - which is a bit less than 400 per hour. What I typically do is every time I walk past the press I sit down and load 100 rounds. Anybody can find 10-15 minutes to load. An hour might be harder to find.
I'm an NRA certified reloading instructor but I think this place frowns on advertising or posting email addresses. But I'm retired and would be happy to get you started. Free, like Dillon.
I just read a few posts and learned Dillon is backordered. Still, there is a reason they are backordered.
 
Shootist43 said:
Most of what you are talking about makes sense and there are plenty of people willing to offer advice. But, I think the way to start, once you have equipment, is with recommended loads from what ever powder manufacturer you choose to use. Again the recommendations for types of powder everybody has their favorite. So if you choose to start with, let's say, Winchester, look at their loading manuals, all available on line, and start with the lower third of the range they recommend. Somebody's favorite load may work perfectly for them in THEIR GUN, but not so perfect in your gun, even if the same model. So read the posts but take everything with a grain of salt, or powder.
I didn't read all of the posts but in the few I did Dillon's Precision was missing. Dillon (call and get one of their catalogs and get on their list) makes progressive presses (google it if you don't know what that is) which is what you want if you are a pistol shooter. A progressive press is what you want if you are a pistolero because you may shoot hundreds of rounds per week which most rifle shooters don't do.
I have two Dillon Square Deal B's which only load pistol rounds. I have used them to load 100's of thousands of rounds over almost 40 years. Never, well almost never, a problem. But if something does go wrong they will help you determine what's wrong, and send any parts you might need free, shipping paid. Lifetime warranty for real. Even if it is your fault, like you can't get it together after cleaning, or you lost a screw or bearing. FREE - LIFETIME. I have dies for 6 or 7 different calibers for guns I have owned over the years but don't buy dies until you need them. If you think you might load rifle cartridges you will need to step up from the Square Deal B. I'm not a rifleman so they were fine for me.
Some folks reload because they enjoy it, like a hobby in itself. Me I find it boring and tiring for my right arm. I loaded all that ammo because it used to be much cheaper than factory ammo. Not so much anymore and primers are hard to find reasonably priced. Once started you'll be buying them 5,000 at a time. On my presses I can load 100 rds. in less than 15 minutes - which is a bit less than 400 per hour. What I typically do is every time I walk past the press I sit down and load 100 rounds. Anybody can find 10-15 minutes to load. An hour might be harder to find.
I'm an NRA certified reloading instructor but I think this place frowns on advertising or posting email addresses. But I'm retired and would be happy to get you started. Free, like Dillon.
I just read a few posts and learned Dillon is backordered. Still, there is a reason they are backordered.
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well since i originally started this thread, it's been just over 2 years now of reloading.

i'd have to go get my reloading log books and then give you a near total of how many rounds i have made.

but i know its at least over 5,000

i only reload pistol, and pretty much just 9mm and 45 ACP

i have several up to date reloading books, and yes, i do check the powder website as well for more updates.

i switched from lead bullets to poly-coated 45, and the 9mm's are now copper coated

too much smoke from using lead bullets, and i no longer have to wear latex gloves, just to handle the lead
 
Old_Me said:
well since i originally started this thread, it's been just over 2 years now of reloading.

i'd have to go get my reloading log books and then give you a near total of how many rounds i have made.

but i know its at least over 5,000

i only reload pistol, and pretty much just 9mm and 45 ACP

i have several up to date reloading books, and yes, i do check the powder website as well for more updates.

i switched from lead bullets to poly-coated 45, and the 9mm's are now copper coated

too much smoke from using lead bullets, and i no longer have to wear latex gloves, just to handle the lead
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Should have known this started as your post ! Reloading is either a passion or an intense dislike. Started the game in 1979, with 7.65 Mauser. Have dies for 38+/- calibers. Some calibers have made it cheaper to buy new, think 9mm, some have got to the point of being better for reloading , think 38. I have no presses except a Rockchucker and a Herters C. No progressives, no turrets, etc. The ‘ zen” of reloading carries me through and I never consider time at the bench as wasted time!
 
3L120 said:
Should have known this started as your post ! Reloading is either a passion or an intense dislike. Started the game in 1979, with 7.65 Mauser. Have dies for 38+/- calibers. Some calibers have made it cheaper to buy new, think 9mm, some have got to the point of being better for reloading , think 38. I have no presses except a Rockchucker and a Herters C. No progressives, no turrets, etc. The ‘ zen” of reloading carries me through and I never consider time at the bench as wasted time!
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well whether it is my Lee or Dillon, i use each as a single stage press....i have tried more than a few times to use them as progressives, but even at my slow working speeds, i get "mucked up" to the point where..."one at a time works best for me"

also too, unlike some of you here, i had absolutely NO mentor to guide me..i had to refer to youtube videos, and sites like this for advice, and believe me, i joined the Queen Mary of sites to gather up all the information i could.

it was a slow process to learn, but my former days of a wrencher helped me assemble, adjust, the produce many rounds of ammo

is reloading a "passion" for me..??? NO

but it is a part of the hobby/sport i wanted to learn and do, much like when i was wrenching or driving trucks, i wanted more knowledge of my trades as i cannot stand to at least try and learn more.

do i "dislike" reloading....NO.......

cuz if i did..??

i would have sold my reloading room..........long ago.

i am into reloading for a while longer...how long...???

well........i think the "man up stairs", will give me a signal to stop

unless....he goes out for a beer, and forgets to let me know......
 
WOW...!!

buttery freaking SMOOTH crimping the 45 ACP's now on my 550C with the Dillon crimping die....

glad i finally went and got it.

i only had to reload 100 rounds, not the 200 i thought i had to do.

a pure pleasure now.
 
sunday, i reloaded 650 rds of 9mm on the Lee.

towards i'd say past the 450 point, i noticed the shell plate was "skipping" or chattering as it turned.

but i continued to finish.

after the last round, i took apart the Lee, the bottom of the shell plate had rust?? spots where it contacts the base of the press..

and the base was somewhat dirty, not oily or greasy however..

so i used a wire wheel to clean the shell plate, used Simple Green to clean the base, and reassembled

this morning, the wife went grocery shopping with the daughters for T-Day side dishes, pies and other stuff....giving me time for more reloads.

so i made up 400 more 9mm......my stock of 9mm is now at 1500 rounds, and that's 500 more than i ever had on hand of reloaded 9mm.

the Lee shell plate was super smooth in turning

should the base plate get that "rust" again, and we all know it will, i will wire wheel it again, and spray some sort of metal anti-rust paint

the only other problematic issue today was.......Military brass, from my sweepings of the public range.

i have a can with some that i had months ago swaged, so these few more will get that done as well.

i haven't reloaded any previous military brass, at the very least, its just practice for me to do that step.
 
I clean the shell plate on my Dillon when I change over to another caliber. Usually just a wipe with a cloth and the occasional brush on the cut outs for the shells. The machine itself is cleaned with degreaser on a rag or CLP. Dirt, powder and other grunge does build up in circular swirls, but hasn't caused chattering/skipping. I tend to load 1 or 2K at a time.
 
I have absolutely no financial interest in anything to do with "Lee Precision", but I like to promote a good product when I can. Since John Lee passed away and his sons have taken over, the company has introduced several new products that I think will go a long way in the reloading industry. They are inexpensive, innovative, creative, and most worthwhile. The "Lee" Auto Drum powder measure for one is beyond compare for simplicity, accuracy, and cost effectiveness. And you won't find a more accurate powder scale than the "Lee". It's a little bit a pain in the azz to understand and set-up the first time, but once it's set up it will be well within .1 gr on throw after throw with no further adjustment. Check them out.

I've been using "Lee" products since the early 70's iirc, probably around 55-6 years, and never had an issue with any of them that wasn't due to my carelessness or not paying strict attention, and that's after loading 100's of 1,000's of rounds. There's not many products I can say that about, but "Lee" is one. I would highly recommend "Lee" products to anyone new to the hobby of reloading both for the less cost and the proven performance. I honestly can say there are many other good products out there, most much more costly than "Lee", but it's a really hard job in finding any with more value for the dollar. And I really like the 'Banner' red color of their products. :)(y):D

Just this one man's opinion. jj
 
jumpinjoe said:
I have absolutely no financial interest in anything to do with "Lee Precision", but I like to promote a good product when I can. Since John Lee passed away and his sons have taken over, the company has introduced several new products that I think will go a long way in the reloading industry. They are inexpensive, innovative, creative, and most worthwhile. The "Lee" Auto Drum powder measure for one is beyond compare for simplicity, accuracy, and cost effectiveness. And you won't find a more accurate powder scale than the "Lee". It's a little bit a pain in the azz to understand and set-up the first time, but once it's set up it will be well within .1 gr on throw after throw with no further adjustment. Check them out.

I've been using "Lee" products since the early 70's iirc, probably around 55-6 years, and never had an issue with any of them that wasn't due to my carelessness or not paying strict attention, and that's after loading 100's of 1,000's of rounds. There's not many products I can say that about, but "Lee" is one. I would highly recommend "Lee" products to anyone new to the hobby of reloading both for the less cost and the proven performance. I honestly can say there are many other good products out there, most much more costly than "Lee", but it's a really hard job in finding any with more value for the dollar. And I really like the 'Banner' red color of their products. :)(y):D

Just this one man's opinion. jj
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Joe, once my Lee is all set up, it runs....however, it is no Dillon, with its plastic base. where i could use Brake Kleen on my Dillion's press, i'd be asking for problems on the Lee....it will eventually eat away at the plastic.

this was my first issue with the shell plate "skipping", or "chattering" as it went from station to station...

best way to describe that "chattering"..??

think of your windshield wipers going across your windshield........when they need to be replaced.

all my guns, ammo, presses, dies, tools, are in the basement.

it is dry, and i run a dehumidifier in the summer time.

the shell plate should not have gotten rust on the underside, why is Dillons perfect then..??

wouldn't the Dillons shell plate have had rust as well..??

my guns..??? my tools...??

so its not a humidity/moisture issue, its a Lee issue.

granted what @youngolddude said that powder gets thrown, dirt gets in.....i do have covers for my presses and the 4 standy by Dillon powder drop cylinders/tool heads, on the bench.

my Lee Pro-4000 is dedicated to 9mm only,

my Dillon can do what i have powder drops/tool heads/dies for, 9mm, 38/357, 45 ACP, 45 Colt LC, 10mm/40

i only shoot 9mm and 45 ACP, as for the Colt LC, and 38's, THEN i can throw on those tools heads when needed.

at the price of about $150 (or so) we cannot expect the Lee to be all heavy metal press, like the $600 DIllon, that's a given.

and i only oil both presses rams, and use grease on the Dillon's pivot points, which a grease fitting was installed at the factory

for the money, Lee is a good starting point for sure, that's why i got mine, then the Dillon and entire reloading room was offered at dirt cheap, so i scooped it up.

no regrets in buying the Lee, just disappointed that base where the shell plate rides, is plastic, and (to me) limits a better cleaning, as in using stronger chemicals.

true too what a reloader for over 50 years at the mom/pop gun & bait store told me..

"when you own a Lee, you gotta be a tinkerer"....

no truer words.
 
Whoa there Ol_Friend, I didn't say anything bad about your Dillon equipment, I didn't say anything bad about anybody's Dillon equipment, in fact I didn't say anything about Dillon at all. And what I did say is "I honestly can say there are many other good products out there, most much more costly than "Lee", but it's a really hard job in finding any with more value for the dollar." So in that sentence I actually complimented Dillon and others.

What I was trying to do was to extol the virtues of "Lee" especially to any new-comers, that's all. And relative to your concern about the shell plate on your 'Pro-4000', I'd suggest you contact "Lee" about that. Something just don't seem right about the issue you're having. I have an old (probably late 1990's or early 2000's) 'Pro-1000', very similar I think to the 4000 that I haven't used in years. It's been sitting on a shelf in the garage for most of it's life, and due to your issue above I took the shell plate out to look and there was not enough rust on it to even matter. I know it's not been cleaned or even removed in more than 12-15 years. I stopped using it many years ago and went back to my trusty ol' 3 place turret press. I now have a much newer 4 place 'Classic' turret press that I typically use. I just like the feel of the turret press better and was never into mass production anyway. My preference was a smaller number of rounds but with far more specifics. When I was competing regularly (1970's through early 2000's iirc) I was a total nerd about my reloads and the turret press allowed me to be that specific. Hell, I'd even measure and weigh the water capacity of every case I used for comps. I never loaded a case that I hadn't trimmed to length by hand and even got to the point I was turning the inside of the necks on some bottle neck cases to ensure equal bullet pull from one round to the next.

So with all that said, I never found a need to be a tinkerer with any of my "Lee" stuff. Granted some of it might not have been quite as straight forward to set up initially (I'm thinking of the little "Lee" powder scale) as some more expensive brands, but once done and done right, I honestly don't remember ever having to re-do any of my equipment due to a failure of the equipment itself. Bad as I hate to admit it any re-do required (few and far between) was due to failure of the operator. So in the end, my whole post was based on this premise: I honestly can say there are many other good products out there, most much more costly than "Lee", but it's a really hard job in finding any with more value for the dollar. OK, we good? (y)
 
@jumpinjoe , i wasn't blasting you about mention (or not mentioning) Dillon, i was merely asking why was the Dillon's shell plate not rusting? especially in the very same environment as my guns, ammo, and tools.

if i take apart the Lee again, and see rust spots, i will wire wheel it and maybe give it some rust preventative paint, like Rustoleum.

but yes, the old(er) guy i know here at the store, has more than just Lee equipment as well, and he flat out told me, "if you own a Lee, you gotta be a tinkerer"

maybe he has older Lee stuff, i'd imagine so, cuz like i said, when mine got all adjusted and tuned, it runs........just the other day when it started chattering/skipping as it turned from one station to the other.
 
Just a couple points. With .45 ACP you need to carefully sort your brass as that’s a weird case that has some mfgr’s using small pistol and some large pistol primers. Do NOT mic your brass. Also, with ANY handgun round you need to be VERY careful with powder charges for a couple reason. (1) the difference between “minimum” and “maximum” is often a few 10ths of a grain of powder (and there are 7,000 grains to the pound). You can’t tell by just looking. (2) be very careful that you don’t “double charge” a case, which can easily happen with some of the larger cases (usually a rifle case would not even Hold a double charge-many handgun case will). Reloading is a great hobby, BUT you really need to pay attention to what you’re doing. Saw a man destroy a nice 19 Smith because it had an apparent double charge. It wasn’t pretty.
 
Shibadog said:
Just a couple points. With .45 ACP you need to carefully sort your brass as that’s a weird case that has some mfgr’s using small pistol and some large pistol primers. Do NOT mic your brass. Also, with ANY handgun round you need to be VERY careful with powder charges for a couple reason. (1) the difference between “minimum” and “maximum” is often a few 10ths of a grain of powder (and there are 7,000 grains to the pound). You can’t tell by just looking. (2) be very careful that you don’t “double charge” a case, which can easily happen with some of the larger cases (usually a rifle case would not even Hold a double charge-many handgun case will). Reloading is a great hobby, BUT you really need to pay attention to what you’re doing. Saw a man destroy a nice 19 Smith because it had an apparent double charge. It wasn’t pretty.
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yeah, i hate that SPP and LPP brass in 45 ACP.

what i always do is, if it is public range brass sweepings, i always make sure i clean/polish LPP.

if i find any APP brass, i toss them into my recycling bucket.

i measure my powder charges at first, for say 10 rounds, then every 30 rounds after that.

this is yet another reason why, even though i have 2 progressive presses, i only work on 1 cartridge at a time
 
i cannot comment on the lee or any others except my dillion
i have used my NEW square deal re loader since 07
other than normal wear and tear replacement stuff and one die that popped its sizing insert.
its been a great machine.
it gets cleaned at each caliber change, (380, 9mm and 45acp).
every now and again a primer goes astray and hides somewhere only to re-emerge from a hiding spot.
i load the primer tubes in 100 primers, occasionally i get 99 back, then by magic the next run i get 101...its not consistent in this mystery, but it does baffle me
it does not jam up anything, ,,, it just hides
i have tore this puppy down to just an alum black and never figured out where the primers hide.

i run 400 to 500 per session.

then the machine may sit for months , wipe it down check powder weight and we are off to the races

i really like the powder measure ...its dead on steady once you dial it on for the run, which takes no time at all, as i have been doing it a long time.

dillions customer help and all that is outstanding imo
 
powerboatr said:
i cannot comment on the lee or any others except my dillion
i have used my NEW square deal re loader since 07
other than normal wear and tear replacement stuff and one die that popped its sizing insert.
its been a great machine.
it gets cleaned at each caliber change, (380, 9mm and 45acp).
every now and again a primer goes astray and hides somewhere only to re-emerge from a hiding spot.
i load the primer tubes in 100 primers, occasionally i get 99 back, then by magic the next run i get 101...its not consistent in this mystery, but it does baffle me
it does not jam up anything, ,,, it just hides
i have tore this puppy down to just an alum black and never figured out where the primers hide.

i run 400 to 500 per session.

then the machine may sit for months , wipe it down check powder weight and we are off to the races

i really like the powder measure ...its dead on steady once you dial it on for the run, which takes no time at all, as i have been doing it a long time.

dillions customer help and all that is outstanding imo
Click to expand...
i love the Dillon videos...very comprehensive.

once in a great while, a primer on my 550C will hide as well.
 
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